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Industry rising to meet challenges of today, Self says

NCTO's 11th Annual Meeting

Posted March 31, 2014

 

During the National Council of Textile Organization’s 11th Annual Meeting last week, James C. “Jay” Self III, president of Greenwood Mills, Inc., Greenwood, S.C., was elected chairman of the group. eTC caught up with Self during the meeting.

 

eTC: Jay, you’re moving into the NCTO chairmanship after a three-year tenure by Unifi’s Bill Jasper. Please speak to Bill’s leadership and the difference he made for NCTO and textile industry.

 

Jay Self (L) of Greenwood Mills says a few words to membership in his first official duty as NCTO chairman during their annual meeting.

To view more photos of the event, click here.

Self: NCTO is very fortunate that Bill Jasper was willing and able to lead the association through such a critical transition period. Bringing three large and established textile associations into one was only possible because of the strong leadership and commitment in each of these groups. With a single voice, our industry has a much stronger presence in Washington than we have had in many years. Bill has also been an asset to NCTO through his knowledge of the issues and his engagement with leaders in Washington.

 

eTC: Coming from a family steeped in textile history and ancestors who contended with numerous trials of their own over the last 100-plus years, what does it mean personally to serve in such a high-profile position and advocate for the industry facing today’s challenges?

 

Self: I am honored to be able to serve as the next chairman of NCTO. To do so in the same year that my family’s company celebrates 125 years in business is an even bigger honor. As times and situations have changed, our industry has been extremely dynamic and resilient. I believe that just as the industry rose to meet the challenges of the past, we are rising to meet challenges we face today. We are also sowing the seeds for our future success as the industry continues to invest and develop new products and production processes. I love this industry, and I am eager to be able to give back through my service as chairman.

eTC: What are your goals for the council during your term, particularly as they relate to the multitude of trade-related tribulations such as the ongoing Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) agreement and its various outcomes?

 

Self: We want to ensure that we reach a positive conclusion to the various trade policy initiatives that currently confront us. Specifically, the Trans-Pacific Partnership poses a challenge to our industry quite unlike anything we have ever seen before. It is very encouraging that the U.S. industry has united and engaged in the effort to include a reasonable rule of origin that sends any benefits from this agreement to partner countries. Because we have been united, and because we have been able to demonstrate the validity of our arguments with solid data, the U.S. government has remained steadfast in pursuit of a yarn-forward rule of origin. It is critical that this agreement be finalized in a sustainable fashion.

 

In addition, we need to continue the fight to preserve and enhance the Berry Amendment. Defense procurement has become an extremely important aspect of the U.S. textile industry’s overall portfolio. Military procurement will continue to be an agenda item of great interest to us.

eTC: Besides TPP, what do you see as some of the industry’s other big challenges and what is the correct industry response to these?

 

Self: After TPP, the next big trade issue will be the Transatlantic Trade and Investment Partnership (TTIP). This is a free trade agreement with the European Union. If this agreement is structured properly, and if it includes the proven yarn-forward rule of origin, the U.S. and European industries have the opportunity to grow trade and attract new investment. The EU is insisting on a complicated “double transformation” rule that effectively cuts fiber and yarn producers out of the agreement. In many cases, that rule also cuts fabric producers out of the agreement. NCTO is already working with partners throughout the U.S. to promote our position with the U.S. government and with our industry counterparts in Europe.

 

eTC: The merger last year between NCTO, NTA (National Textile Association) and AMTAC (American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition) created a broad-based industry association that strengthens the industry from a lobbying perspective, of course. How has the merger improved the industry’s effectiveness in mobilizing the industry and what methods have the council found most successful in this effort?

 

Self: You are right that the merger has strengthened the industry in Washington. Although NCTO, NTA and AMTAC worked together closely and advocated issues together, the fact that we speak with a single voice for a united industry in a larger association makes us stronger. Even though all the associations were national in scope, our members were in different parts of the country. With a single advocacy campaign, we now have a broader reach to members of Congress in every part of the country. This also underscores the importance of every member company, from the largest to the smallest, because each company can speak to respective members of Congress as constituents.

eTC: Tell us some good news as it relates to the industry in the coming year.

 

Self: There is a lot of good news to report. The biggest story has been the wave of investment coming from overseas – and this is on top of the investments that the domestic industry continues to make every year. The fact that companies from lower wage countries are coming to the U.S. to manufacture textiles says a lot about the competitiveness of our industry.

 

The U.S. industry is also a textile export giant in the world. Our exports are growing every year. In fact, textile exports increased by more than 4.5 percent in 2013 to $17.9 billon. Much of the export growth is due to the yarn-forward rule in our regional free trade agreements, but we are also seeing growth to new markets and growth in new products.

 

eTC: Appropriately, perhaps, you’re chairing the industry’s top lobbying organization during your company’s 125th year in business, as you mentioned. In general, please speak to the reasons behind Greenwood Mills’ longevity and success. Also, can you provide a sneak peek into plans Greenwood Mills’ has to celebrate this grand milestone?

 

Self: At Greenwood Mills, we can attribute our success to our relationships with our customers. Without them we are out of business. At the same time we have always understood that we have to invest for the future and meet the customers’ ever-changing demands. We cannot be satisfied with the status quo. We have been blessed with dedicated, hard working, innovative people that continue to provide high-quality products and service to our customers. This has been our success formula for 125 years.

 

I am immensely proud of Greenwood Mills and what my great-grandfather, grandfather father and all the people who have worked here have done. This year we will have several events honoring our people, community and customers as we lead up to our anniversary in October.

  • NCTO members leave meeting feeling encouraged, optimistic. Click here to read.

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