Posted November 12, 2014
By Devin Steele
GREENWOOD, SC – Greenwood Mills, Inc., a privately held fabric producer for the apparel, industrial and military markets, last month marked the 125th anniversary of its founding. The company’s longevity, adaptability, flexibility and continued strength were all key factors in Greenwood Mills’ being named eTextileCommunication’s 2014 Industry Champion.
The company celebrated the milestone with several internal events. In conjunction with the occasion, a fifth-edition update to its The Character of Quality history book, first published in 1964 during the company’s 75th anniversary, has been published electronically. Click here to download and read the updated book covering the last 25 years.
Greenwood Mills has remained a viable player in the U.S. textile industry through a long period of global volatility that led to dramatic domestic industry contraction. Since 1889, the company has demonstrated a tremendous ability to adapt to change and endure. Through wars, a Depression, recessions, energy crises, rapidly rising imports and more, the company has made its way in the world of textiles.
“We are a different company than we were 25 years ago, or even 10 years ago,” said Greenwood Mills President James C. (Jay) Self, III, whose great-grandfather James C. Self bought the company in 1908 and turned it into one of the most successful business stories in South Carolina and U.S. textile history. “During times of turmoil in the late 1990s and early 2000s, we made the necessary changes and put the right pieces in place to ensure our future. Today, we are a smaller company but continue to have leading positions in the markets we serve. Our employees, suppliers and customers are all key reasons we have been able to survive and achieve this milestone.”
Quality has been a hallmark of Greenwood Mills for decades. By continuing to invest in new technologies, the company earned a worldwide reputation for producing the highest-quality products available, and to this day continually strives to improve its quality. It has spent millions of dollars on the latest capital equipment in order to ensure its products are top-notch, a big differentiator in a competitive industry. It employs skilled operators. And a Character of Quality program it implemented in the late 1980s still exists and continues to serve as the company’s guiding principle and mission.
Greenwood Mills celebrates 125-year anniversary
Character of Quality mission helps fabric producer remain strong player in the U.S. textile industry
Looking back over 125 years of company history, most of it shaped and directed by members of his family, Self said he was most proud of his family's “ability to provide good-paying jobs and to give back to it community and state through The Self Foundation,” which, since 1942, has awarded more than $60 million in grants to improve the quality of life for the citizens of Greenwood and throughout South Carolina.
Adaptability, flexibility helped Greenwood remain viable
The company, originally known as Greenwood Cotton Mill and founded by William Lowndes Durst on Oct. 5, 1889, began as a single cotton mill with 75 employees. While the first 100 years of Greenwood Mills were marked by change and turbulent periods, the company’s trajectory was mostly upward. Despite facing some consolidation in the 1980s, it still counted itself among the largest textile companies in the country when it celebrated its centennial in 1989.
Today, after a 25-year period that saw it meet and overcome some of its most daunting challenges, that distinction no longer holds true. But its stature and significance are not measured in size or output. It remains an important, distinguished player in this industry because of its adaptability and flexibility, investment in the latest technologies, its management team, a strong employee base, a resolute focus on the customer, a relentless pursuit of excellence and, as importantly, its steadfast commitment to quality.
With a leaner operation of only one domestic facility – the Harris Plant in Greenwood – and an apparel division that manufactures in Mexico, the company has found its footing over the last eight or so years and has figured out how to survive the world of globalization and a tumultuously shifting business environment. About 325 people work three shifts five, six or seven days a week at the Harris Plant, as needed. Products include fabrics for the military, work wear and for industrial and specialty uses. All of the plant’s yarn equipment is modern, flexible and cost efficient – the best equipment in the industry.
One of the shining lights of Greenwood Mills’ last 25-year history is SingleSource Apparel (SSA), a wholly owned subsidiary. Headquartered in Greenwood, SingleSource manufactures most of its products in Mexico, at Industrias Jobar in Aguascalientes. More than 1,500 people work at the facility manufacturing mostly denim. SSA was the first U.S.-based vertically integrated manufacturer of denim jeans, jackets and shirts. SingleSource continues today as a viable part of Greenwood’s operations. From its inception, the company’s charter has been to provide large, branded apparel companies with turnkey, full-package manufacturing. SSA also has offices in Easley, S.C., where patterns are generated by computer and are transmitted electronically to the manufacturing facilities.
By a portrait of his father, James Cuthbert Self
With Harris Plant employees
Greenwood also supplies fabrics for all four primary branches of the U.S. military, and to this day has the lion’s share of business for basic utility uniform fabrics. The company also produces fabrics that are used in jackets, helmet liners, and chemical protective suits.
In addition, Greenwood has been able to maintain its leading positions in its niche fabric markets – flame-resistant (FR) and industrial laundry.
Jay Self: A steady leader and caretaker
Jay Self is the fifth member of his family to serve as president of the company. His great-grandfather, James Cuthbert Self, became president in 1908 and served until his death in 1955. Jay Self's grandfather, James C. (Jim) Self, served as president from 1955 to 1983, when he became chairman of the board. Jay Self’s father, James. C. (Jimmy) Self, Jr., became president in 1983 and served until 1984, when he became chief executive officer and chairman of the board, replacing his father, who became chairman of the company executive committee. Jay Self has served as president since 2005.
Jay Self also this year is serving as chairman of the industry’s top lobbying group, the Washington, D.C.-based National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO). “To serve as NCTO chairman in the same year that my family’s company celebrates 125 years in business is a tremendous honor,” he said.
“As times and situations have changed, our industry and Greenwood Mills have been extremely dynamic and resilient,” he continued. “I believe that just as the industry and our company rose to meet the challenges of the past, we are rising to meet challenges we face today. We are also sowing the seeds for our future success as we continue to invest and develop new products and production processes.”
Slideshow: Greenwood Mills' 125-year anniversary celebration (Oct. 7, 2014)
Produced by Devin Steele
Photos by Devin Steele