Valdese Weavers marks centennial
Foresight, creativity, innovation put legacy company in position of strength
Posted November 9, 2015
By Devin Steele (DSteele@eTextileCommunications.com)
VALDESE, N.C. – Just a stone’s throw from Interstate 40 halfway between Morganton and Hickory in North Carolina sits the headquarters and main production operations of one of the world’s most venerable and successful textile operations.
Along with three other facilities that help support about 950 families in Burke County, Valdese Weavers has a large footprint in Valdese, a Waldensian settlement in the scenic Appalachian foothills.
This year, Valdese Weavers is marking its 100th anniversary, having survived several tumultuous periods in U.S. and textile industry history. The manufacturer of jacquard textiles, which traces its roots back to the Waldensian Swiss Embroidery Co., is in one of its strongest positions in its history, poised for its second century of prosperity. And it didn’t reach this enviable position by chance.
Indeed, foresight, creativity, innovation and assertiveness have all mixed to create a can-do culture that has contributed mightily to its success. But one must, well, pull back the drapery (more on that later) to really comprehend the intangibles, that certain je ne sais quoi, that make Valdese Weavers tick. There, you’ll see a spirit of teamwork, of cooperation, of family, of caring that was developed more than a half century ago by then owner and President Harley Shuford and has carried forth to this day.
These idiosyncrasies have figured prominently into the company’s ability to stay ahead of the curve, grow beyond its wildest imagination and avoid the fate that befell many of its textile industry brethren over the last two decades.
CEO Mike Shelton sums it up thusly: “We are a very aggressive, very ambitious, very change-oriented culture and have been for many, many years. Our predecessors began that process and we have refined it since 20 years ago when they handed me the keys to the car.”
A change- and development-oriented approach and attitude is deeply ingrained in the company’s dogma and has been a driving impetus behind Valdese Weavers staying on the cutting edge of technology and innovation to gain a competitive advantage, Shelton added. And it has allowed the company to make the necessary changes in its business model to remain a viable player as globalization bore down on U.S. manufacturing in the early 2000s, he contended.
The result: Exponential growth. While much of the U.S. textile industry was in precipitous decline, Valdese Weavers enjoyed double-digit growth from 2004 to 2007, then doubled its business between 2007 and 2013. Remarkable, given the economic climate for American manufacturing in general and textile manufacturing in particular during the last decade.
Today, Valdese Weavers is the largest decorative jacquard textile mill in North America and the leader in the design and manufacturing of these fabrics for residential and commercial markets. Its six branded companies – Valdese Weavers, Valdese Weavers Contract, Circa 1801, Home Fabrics, Valdese International Products (VIP) and Dicey Fabrics – develop fabrics from value to high-end price points and cover the residential, contract, hospitality, health care and specialty markets.
As a standout of great measure, Valdese Weavers has been named eTextileCommunication’s 2015 industry Champion. Let’s explore how the company reached its centennial in such excellent shape, thanks in part to the aforementioned attributes.
Change-oriented mindset
Among those elements that have defined Valdese Weavers is its change-minded mentality. Indeed, changes have been numerous over the last quarter century. That mindset didn’t spring up overnight, of course, but has been encouraged and nurtured for many years.
Otherwise, the company would have had difficulty getting through seismic shifts relative to the way it had done business for decades, such as:
-
the expansion from a small, unbalanced, “traditional-style” fabric business that was 95 percent sold to the jobber trade into a higher-end product arena that resulted in a distribution mix of about 40 percent fabric distributors and 60 percent furniture manufacturers in the early 1990s;
-
the resulting development of a core competence for mass customization, brought forth in large part by the company’s being the industry’s first to adopt a fully networked electronic jacquard process, which enhanced and expanded its design capabilities with thousands of offerings;
-
the construction in 1995 of a finishing and distribution facility (the Crescent Plant) two miles from the main plant to house a yarn dyeing and preparation department, a sample department and a finishing area, along with 10 times more warehouse space and distribution center area;
-
the expansion into the contract market, precipitating the need for a larger sales force and a separate design team, with technical R&D and client-designer collaboration being essential for that segment;
-
the massive move to an Enterprise Resource Plan (ERP) using Germany software supplier SAP, which was an arduous, 18-month process (completed in 1999) and resulted in the synchronization of the entire supply chain through manufacturing process, from ordering raw materials through shipment and tracking.
-
the creation of Valdese International Products (V.I.P.) in 2005 to globally source products such as silks and velvets;
-
the acquisition in 2007 of Joan Fabrics’ units Circa 1801, Home Fabrics and Mastercraft 360 Contract, leading to a broader product mix and greater access to the more decorative side of the market as well as doubling its position in the contract business – a move that propelled the company to become the largest of its kind in the world;
-
the purchase and renovation of a 200,000-square-foot-facility (the Lovelady Plant) to handle all finishing operations; and
-
this year’s acquisition of Dicey Mills of Shelby, N.C., that has extended the breadth of product diversity and market reach by utilizing different yarn systems and weave techniques.
Such changes, of course, were not easy and could not have been done without a team that embraced change, according to Carson Copeland, the company’s chief operating officer. Its employees are innately open to change, to turn on a dime, he said.
“Every decision is made with our customers’ and our employees’ best interests at heart,” said Copeland, who joined the company in 1978 as an hourly associate. “The great thing with our people is if any of us need something, all you have to do is ask. If you explain that we need this and it is a critical part of our business and we need your help to get it done, it's amazing what our people will accomplish. And it doesn't matter whether it's a manager or an hourly associate. That has driven a culture open to change. We know that whatever products are required, whatever customers need to be satisfied, we will do it. And if that's your premise, you can't help but have a change culture because your customer needs change every day.”
And it actually goes a little bit deeper than that, he added.
“We all have a certain responsibility we feel toward each other,” he said, “and we know we all have to work in harmony to be successful, as a product-driven company. And we are considerate and respectful of each other's parts of the business and we know it's going to take everyone to be successful for the company to be successful.”
Another unique aspect that makes Valdese Weavers stand out is an employee stock option plan (ESOP), which, with skin in the game, fosters a certain pride in ownership.
“I think that buy-in, that knowing that your day-to-day efforts contribute to the success of the company has been ingrained in our spirit and has been a differentiating factor for us,” Shelton said.
And having a stake in the company also comes with added responsibility, he continued. He reminds associates of this during every shareholders’ meeting, he said.
“I always remind everyone that nobody knows your job better than you do,” he said. “It’s your responsibility to make sure your thoughts and ideas of how your job can be run better are shared so we can all become better. Anyone might have just a lightning bolt of brilliance.”
Associates mark the company's 100th anniversary.
A cross-section of Valdese Weavers employees at company picnic
Employees in the 1920s
Associates mark the company's 100th anniversary.
Positivity is a plus, too, particularly when working in a customer-focused environment where everyone must be on the same page, Shelton said.
“I’ve always believed in the power of positive peer pressure,” he said. “And the fact that your friend and neighbor and co-worker is excited about coming to work and understands the benefits of the culture to them personally tends to rub off on you.”
Communications is another area that makes it all work, according to Scott George, vice president of sales and marketing, Valdese Contract: “We have a team culture in the sense that we all work well together and communicate well together.”
Visualizing the market
All of those changes have helped propel Valdese Weavers on its explosive growth trajectory. And none were made hastily or without looking beyond the horizon at long-term goals, Shelton said. Anticipating market conditions and trends well into the future is an effective strategy that has served the company well, Shelton said.
“We were able to visualize the market as it was changing and stay ahead of it so it didn’t consume us,” he said.
Such measured judgment was imperative, particularly around the turn of the century as the industry braced for China’s entry into the World Trade Organization (WTO), he added.
“That culture of change allowed us to be proactive in that time, which allowed us to grow our business through the middle of that period,” he said. “Some of that came at the expense of others who weren’t able to compete, but a lot of that came because we found and developed the right techniques that fit the needs of the market at that time and allowed us to stay out of those parts of the market where we didn’t see opportunities to succeed. If you’re in a commodity part of the market, you were going to get beat up and maybe fail and that happened to many, many of our good companies and a lot of our suppliers.”
About a dozen years before that, with its very narrow design scope (mainly “country” motif), Valdese Weavers was on another precipice, as it had become typecast as merely a “country” motif supplier, albeit a very successful one, with limited buyers. Shelton, who had a strong background in marketing and sales, was handpicked by his predecessor to help the company shake this reputation by moving into new arenas.
In the company’s recently published history book, Shelton is called a “pragmatic visionary” who “understood that in order for the company to thrive it needed to continue reinventing itself and continue to seek out new markets that could withstand the effects of globalization.”
Shelton’s strategic vision led to the company to developing a competence for mass customization, diversification of product and early adaptation of technology. It began to create higher-end products, brought in a new sales force and added new equipment. As a result, the company grew four-fold between 1988 and 1994.
Later, decisions made before the “Great Recession” of 2008-09 would play a hand in helping the company get through that period and emerge stronger than ever today.
Its bounceback was tremendously enhanced by the critical mass it had gained through the acquisition of the Joan Fabrics’ units and the competence across markets that gave it a broader opportunity to rebound, Shelton said. But decisions made in advance of the downturn were crucial, he added.
“Residential was impacted much more quickly than contract (during the recession),” he said. “We went to the fall market in 2007 and our business was good. With the acquisition, we had a bubble of pent-up demand that we knew was going to dissipate to a lower level – but it hadn’t by then. But we made proactive plans for when it did. We didn’t wait. And, sure enough, it happened and we were ready for it. Now, it discarded every plan that we had made for the acquisition. All the plans we had made for growth, we threw out the window and made the business fit.”
Company leaders picked the worst-case scenario and planned for that, according to Shelton.
“Business conditions deteriorated fast, but we were ahead of it, which was one of the most magnificent management performances I’ve ever seen,” he said. “We anticipated a decline before it happened. We didn’t react.”
Management perspective
Speaking of management, Shelton, who has served as CEO since 1997, said he has surrounded himself with industry veterans who work well together and share a similar vision.
In addition to Copeland and George, executive-level leaders include Snyder Garrison, chief financial officer and the grandson of former President Shuford, who purchased the company in 1941; Blake Millinor, chief sales and marketing officer; Laura Levinson, chief creative officer; Joe Feege, senior vice president, Sales; Bob Walters, senior vice president, Customer Relations; Joel Crisp, senior vice president, Global Operations; and Janet Kuck, senior vice president, Information Systems.
Several of these leaders said being a part of such a unique organization is gratifying and were happy to extol the virtues of the company.
“When the opportunity came up to join Valdese Weavers (in 2008), it was a special,” Walters said. “I was on the other side of the fence before, as a customer who bought a lot of product from Valdese Weavers. I knew that they were always going to provide great quality, service and delivery, and the people who make up the company were always good to be around and I enjoyed working with them.
“The company has created a business model that is exceptional,” he continued. “It allows us to leverage our products’ design and selling stream, and it allows us to leverage our quality and operational streams to whatever products our end-users desire. We have the capital to be able to source and inventory goods. So we can service them at almost a domestic level for quick service.”
Likewise, Crisp also worked for a Valdese customer prior to joining the company in 2005. He said he was always impressed with the company’s team approach when working with customers.
“After joining Valdese, I learned that our company's culture of working together was formed as the result of becoming an ESOP company (in 1995),” he said. “Each and every member of our workforce has a personal interest in the success of our company.”
That Valdese Weavers is a designed-based company with world-class, ISO-certified manufacturing facilities is another a huge differentiating factor, George added, who joined the company in 2013.
“The thing that has amazed me is that everything in this company is structured to support product,” he said. “We give design whatever it needs to be successful in the marketplace. And I'm not just talking about a nice studio and access to the archives and the artwork and all those things. But the manufacturing process that we have in this facility is built to support design.”
He added that, while creating product is often about doing large lots in large runs for cost reasons, Valdese Weavers have gone in the opposite direction by doing small runs. That allows the company to increase the amount of yarns its designers can create for customers, as well as providing the ability to dye the amount of yarn needed to fill orders, whether its 15 pounds or 4,000 pounds, he said.
“Our No. 1 job, from a manufacturing standpoint, is to manage complexity,” George said. “Design is going to create complexity because we have a broad base of customers that have a broad base of product needs and we make sure we make the design, the products and the colors that our customers want.”
For Valdese Weavers, mass customization is a key separator, Walters said.
“We thrive on unique products that are specific to our customers,” he said. “They collaborate with us to create product that will help drive their business. And by doing that we've created a model that's very flexible. We have one-piece minimums. Eighty percent of what we produce his customer-specific product. And we have a huge toolbox with which to create product. When you put all that together, I would think most manufacturing people would run for cover. But our operational and manufacturing team embraces that. I feel like that's what sets us apart.”
In addition, success breeds success, according to George – especially when Valdese Weavers’ largest two units have each enjoyed their share of it over the years.
“We compete in a variety of areas, certainly in the contract arena but also in the residential arena,” he said. “The fact that we have been successful in both areas, I think, is a competitive advantage because we are able to feed off of each other, being all part of the same team.”
Shelton said he is confident in the abilities of the team he has assembled, and after that, his primary job is to get out of their way.
“I am not a micro-manager,” he said. “My philosophy is, you find the best people you can find, you put them in the right spot and you let them do what they can do. I’m never going to criticize someone for making a bad decision if they did it for all the right reasons. Anybody will probably tell you they have the freedom to succeed and the freedom to make an aggressive mistake every once in awhile.”
He then pulled out a quote that read: “A leader is powerful to the degree he empowers others.”
“I live by that,” he said.
The importance of customer relations
Customer relations is one of the most important practices for any company, of course. Having good customer relations spells customer satisfaction, a hallmark to any successful business. To that end, Valdese has created numerous ways to stay connected to, interact with and grow stronger bonds with customers, Walters said.
“The most important thing I do here is serve as an advocate for customers' voices within the company and working with the team here to try to develop the best customer relationships through great products, great service, great quality and great value,” he said. “And I've never been associated with a company that has so many touch points with their customers, everything from website interconnectivity all the way to social media. We have a design interaction blog that represents all of our designers working directly with our customers. Then we're at all the major shows connecting. And we have great sales reps and great sales management points of contact.”
Other well wishers
Happy anniversay to everyone at Valdese Weavers! Welcome to the 100-year club. That in itself is quite an accomplishment. Swift Spinning, Inc. has worked with Valdese for many years and look forward to many more. I have worked with several contacts at Valdese and have formed great working relationships.
Rita Davis
Sales & Customer Assurance manager
Production Planner
Swift Spinning, Inc.
Columbus, Ga.
---
Congratulations to Valdese Weavers for their tenacity, productivity, innovation and courage as well as competitive spirit for standing tall for 100 years. We all should and I do wish them 100 more successful years.
Kanti Jasani
President
Performance and Technical Textile Consulting
---
100 years in any business is a huge accomplishment. It makes it extra special that it’s the textile industry. Congratulations!
Michael Lavroff
President
Jason Mills, LLC
Milltown, N.J.
---
Congrats to Valdese! Keep on growing from strength to strength!
Sarah Barton-King
The Pink Room Design
Studio, Inc.
New York City
---
Happy 100th anniversary,Valdese Weavers!!
Jodi B. Geis
Testing Lab manager
The Manufacturing Solutions Center @ CVCC
Conover, N.C.
Valdese Weavers also hosts numerous customers on visits to its plants and even has a program called “Textiles 101.” There, customized presentations are made that cover all areas of design, dyeing, weaving, yarn types, finishing types, quality, etc., and various processes are demonstrated live.
“The program gives customers that basic understanding of jacquard weaving and all the processes that are involved in developing and shipping our products,” Walters said. “The purpose is to give them a good baseline knowledge of our products and processes and to build stronger relationships with our customers.”
Strengthening relationships with customers and keeping a keen focus on the marketplace also involves visits to customers’ locations, Feege said – and not just by one person in one particular area.
“We (executives) all go out and travel with our sales staff, to a certain extent,” said Feege, a company veteran who, at age 77, said he loves every minute working at Valdese. “We also have designers who go out with our sales people and we have sales management who go out with our sales people. We’re always ear to the ground as to what the customer is looking for. We’re very, very cognizant that we cannot continue to do the same thing time and time and time again because fashions change.”
Attracting and keeping talent
As many in the U.S. textile industry, which suffered from much negative publicity during its long downturn, Valdese Weavers has faced the challenge of finding good, skilled employees. The company has recruited extensively through community colleges and outreach products to attract the best young talent and provide the best training available. As a result, its employee base is a mix of seasoned veterans and Millennials, creating a terrific dynamic, Copeland added.
“One thing we did as an industry that hurt ourselves was, as everyone was downsizing and contracting, we didn't think about bringing bright, young people into the business,” he said. “So we are playing catch up a little bit. But the young people we’re bringing in are so much more aware of the world and they have a better perspective on our world today than we did in our limited experiences. And you have to respect that. We are learning from them.”
Likewise, the “newbies” are learning from their older peers, too, he added.
“We have very experienced technicians who have been in our industry a lot of years and are very smart people and have been great,” Copeland said. “As these people retire, the type of person you need to replace them with is entirely different. We've hired military electronic specialists, for example. They don't know one thing about weaving, but they don't have to. We can teach them textiles. And they can teach us what they know about electronics.”
Attracting young people who communicate and interact differently today using various tools is a plus, not only from an internal perspective, Walters added.
“I think we have to have that edge,” he said. “A lot of our customers and merchants who we work with and people in the marketplace are younger, so we have to have the right people to be able to communicate with them better and use the their preferred methods of communications. And I think that's been really successful for us.”
Shelton added that the aforementioned “positive peer pressure” precept often is a plus to attracting talent to the company.
“One of the proudest elements of this company is that nearly 1,000 people in and around Burke County are able to come to work every day and provide for their families,” he said. “This is a career opportunity – not just a job. It’s a career you can build on. And the benefit of the ESOP means that being an employee owner, you get the residual benefits of ownership, which would be in addition to your compensation.
“We’ve paid a bonus to every person in this company for all but one year in the last 25 years, and I am extremely proud of that,” he continued. “It’s not guaranteed. It’s based on results and we’ve posted good enough results in 24 of the last 25 years that every associate in the company has received an incentive award for their efforts and that, along with employee ownership, are two really strong benefits to working here.”
What lies ahead?
Who knows what the future holds for Valdese Weavers, but one thing is certain: The company will always be on the lookout for opportunities, Walters said.
“We're looking broader than probably we've ever looked before at opportunities that are in our wheelhouse or just outside our wheelhouse at things that we can do or we can create through sourcing or through purchasing,” he said.
For instance, it has recently been working with some apparel manufacturers on new products. And it’s focusing on drapery as a new product segment – and drapery hasn’t been manufactured in the U.S. for more than half a century, Feege said.
“It was a logical step because we used the same cards, so we already had thousands of designs that could be adapted to drapery,” he said. “And the fact we could do one-piece minimums and provide quick delivery was a plus. We talked with different customers in that market and they thought there would be a real good chance for success – and they were right. We’re making tremendous headway in rolling out drapery.”
And, no doubt, Valdese Weavers will keep rolling along well into its second century.