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AATCC’s textile coloration conference covers gamut

Posted October 31, 2017

 

By Devin Steele (DSteele@eTextileCommunications.com)

 

CHARLOTTE, N.C. – The AATCC has always been a leader in getting various segments of the value chain in the same room to discuss issues and common challenges. This is especially true in recent times, with a renewed focus on re-shoring and made in America.

 

In the last couple of years, the association has brought together experts from around the world to cover such topics as lighting, flammability, moisture management, digital printing and, last month, coloration. The Managing Today’s Textile Coloration Challenges: From Fiber to Fashion Conference drew about 100 industry professionals – including brands, retailers, mills and suppliers – for a two-day powwow here to tackle the coloration issue from all angles.

 

Conference sessions included: Color, Performance, and Cost – the Bermuda Triangle for the Brand/Retailer; What Fibers are You Dyeing and How: Best Practices; Modern Coloration Methods and Sustainability; and Emerging Trends and Markets.

 

“When we began organizing this symposium, we thought it would be good to circle the wagons and invite everyone from fiber all the way to sales,” said Program Chair Barry Brady of Organic Dyes and Pigments LLC. “We wanted to include in the title ‘From Fiber To Fashion’ because we all know it takes all of us to make it happen and all of us to keep it in the USA. So we wanted to emphasize the importance of talking about it and asking, ‘how can we do it better?’ and to try to share knowledge.

 

“Twenty-five years ago,” he later added, “if we had had this conference, who would be here? Manufacturers and dye suppliers. We would be missing the connection with the retailers and brands.”

In an info-packed presentation titled, “Creating Urgency Around Corporate Innovation,” Mike Abbott, global director, R&I, HBI, Hanesbrands, covered a lot of ground related to the changing landscape.

 

“We’re in crazy times,” he said. “We don’t know from a political standpoint where we stand. Europe is in turmoil. We have global warming that’s causing terrible storms. It seems like all we here is bad news. So take that as a challenge. How do we pull the positive out of times of turmoil?

 

“The textile industry has not transitioned dramatically in 80 years,” he continued. “We’ve made 3 to 4 percent incremental changes. The question is, how are we going to make a 40 percent change?”

 

And off he went, covering such areas as consumer macro trends, declining retail foot traffic, changing expectations of Millennials and others, the “retail apocalypse,” the migration to e-commerce, bloggers vs. brands and more.

 

“Online apparel sales surpassed consumer electronics sales for the first time ever,” Abbott said, among a number of salient points.

 

To adapt to these changes, retailers and brands are struggling to create relevance, he said. They should start by asking, “What do you do, why do you do it and how do you do it?” he said.

 

“Some say we make things to make money,” Abbott said. “That’s incorrect. We make things to make a difference. Profit is a result. If you don’t interact with bloggers and consumers to let them know what you stand for, they’ll think you’re in the business just to make money.”

 

Bloggers and others have become brand ambassadors, and are often not chosen by retailers and brands to carry their banner, he said.

 

“Hanes is a conservative company and selective with whom are our ambassadors,” he said, showing a photo of a young singer wearing a branded hoodie from Hanesbrands. “Justin Bieber is not who we would’ve chosen first, but it’s making a difference. The problem is controlling your brand. Take advantage of it when you can and be cautious.”

 

He went on to discuss consumer behaviors, big data, artificial intelligence, machine learning, augmented virtual reality, eco-citizenship and more, and how these trends are affecting retailers and brands.

 

Meanwhile, Bryan Dill of Archroma US, Inc., covered “Piecing Together the Color Puzzle – Fashion, Performance, Sustainability.” For dyers, designers and suppliers, trying to make an attractive shade that meets performance and sustainability needs is their primary objective, he said. But, really, those who form textile color also should be thinking about the fashion in that equation, he said.

 

“Color management is important because this is where color is conceptualized,” he said. “When we’re making that color, we need a visualization of what that color is going to be.”

 

So managing and communicating color standards along the entire textile supply chain – from textile mills, vendors and brands/retailers – is important, Dill added.

 

He went on to discuss the tools of the trade and other considerations, including shade development options, Engineered Color Standards (ECS), color communication software, cross-substrate suitability, substrate and dye selection, dyeing processes, sustainability and more.

Session 1:

Color, Performance and Cost – The Bermuda Triangle for the Brand/Retailer

Session 2:

What Fibers Are You Dyeing and How: Best Practices

the use of indigo alternatives; cationic ​pre-treatment, the use of PP spray as an alternative, digital printing and laser-etching denim, she said.

 

Other technical speakers during the session included:

 

  • Ron Pedemonte of DyStar LP, who presented “Dyeing Cotton & Cellulosic Fibers: Begin with the End in Mind.” (He holds more than 30 patents in reactive dye chemistry);

  • Chad Bolick of Unifi Manufacturing, Inc., who discussed “Polyester – The Chameleon of the Modern Textile World;”

  • Nelson Houser of M. Dohmen USA, who covered “Dyeing Polyester and Key Polyester Blends;”

  • Archroma’s Dill, filling in for Harrie Schoots of Ascend Performance Materials, LLC, who went over “Performance Made Simpler and Safer: Nylosan® / Lanasyn® Dyes for Polyamide;” and

  • Pat Browne of Huntsman Textile Effects, who talked about “Dyeing Polyamide (nylon) Fibers and Blends.”

 

A panel featuring all speakers except Bolick, who had to leave early, turned into a rather lively discussion on several issues. “We accomplished what we wanted to accomplish today – we got you talking,” said Brady, in wrapping up the first day.

In this session, moderated by AATCC President Mike Tyndall, Mary Ankeny, vice president of Product Development & Implementation Operations, Cotton Incorporated, discussed “Cotton: Minimizing Inputs for Maximum Results.” She extolled the virtues of cotton, some of the challenges in processing the natural fiber and why it is consumers’ fiber of choice.

 

While the cotton industry was out of kilter in 2011, with price per pound high, production up and usage down, things have settled down recently, she said.

 

“Talk about a resurgence in the market,” Ankeny said. “This year, the USDA is anticipating that the U.S. is going to harvest about 21 million bales of cotton. In the past we’ve been averaging about 12 billion. This is gangbusters. I know we’ve been struggling with hurricanes, but the projection is still about 21 million bales of cotton. We’re still looking at a bumper crop for cotton in the U.S. And as we’re seeing cotton usage go up, China stocks are falling, and we’re anticipating a better balance.”

 

She also touched on cotton industry challenges, including ethanol mandates, resulting in a U.S. cotton acreage loss to corn and soy; China’s cotton policy; the oil price collapse; fashion shifts (movement to synthetics and lighter weights); sustainability (media and attention on cotton inputs); and sluggish growth, with a weak global textile and apparel demand.

 

But opportunities for the cotton industry exist, she added, as: prices become more competitive and market share stabilizes; it engages in more sustainable practices; industry demand rises; and consumers continue to their love affair with cotton.

 

And the cotton industry is leading the way in reducing textile inputs. Water, energy and chemistry are being reduced through the use of low-temperature dyes and soaps, ozone bleaching, enzymatic processing, foam dyeing and finishing,

This session featured several diverse speakers with diverse stories of sustainable practices. Among them was Patagonia’s Matt Swartz, color advisor, who talked about the company’s challenge in reducing its material footprint.

 

“Why do we care?” he asked. “Because we’re a company that lives and breathes our mission statement: ‘Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.’ ”

 

He added: “Every single person I work with has an unprecedented passion for these social and environmental issues. Yes, you can say I drank the Kool-Aid, because I did – but there were no dyes or chemicals in it. We review thousands of lab dips each season. If it has color, we review it.”

 

The challenges of reducing Patagonia’s material footprint are centered on recycled material content, advanced denim and clean colors, he said. One of its initiatives in recycled materials is its Capilene® polyester baselayers, which are multifunctional, durable and easy layering, he said.

 

In denim, because dyeing can be a difficult, dirty process, Patagonia decided to “disrupt the industry,” by working with others to develop a process that uses 84 percent less water, 30 percent less energy and 25 percent less CO2, Swartz said.

 

“We worked with our partners to develop an advanced denim process,” he said. “We don’t sandblast, we don’t bleach, we don’t stonewash. We found a new approach to dyeing denim, but we couldn’t jump right in. We trusted, but we verified. We found that it was successful and it did achieve these savings. Our jeans are made with 100 percent cotton and fair trade sewing. We’re making jeans that are clean, but still have soul.”

 

Though recognizing that natural dyes were not created with textiles in mind, Patagonia realized it had its work cut out, Swartz said. “But we believe using natural dyes is a step away from using petroleum,” he said.

 

As such, Patagonia’s new clothes are made from carmine (the poop of dried beetles), along with indigo, mulberry and pomegranate. Carmine is the red powder produced from cochineal beetles that feed on prickly-pear cacti, he said.

Session 3:

Modern Coloration Methods and Sustainability

“We were able to establish a scale for natural dyes,” Swartz said. “Now, we can work with the supplier on some of those coloration challenges. This is a new process and we’re chipping away at it.”

 

Meanwhile, Alex Gudac, managing director, Global Operations, Unifi Manufacturing, Inc., presented “REPREVE®: Quality through Consistency in Recycled Fibers.” He discussed several years of continuous process improvement with the company’s REPREVE® brand, a family of synthetic fibers containing recycled materials such as plastic bottles.

 

Attendees also heard from Eric Henry, founder and president of TS Designs, Burlington, N.C., a screen-printing company committed to sustainability. The company offers unique T-shirt brands that focus on local, transparent supply chains, he said.

 

“Sustainability is a journey, not a destination,” Henry said. “Everything we do has an environmental impact. We just want to minimize it.”

 

Other presenters during the sustainability session included:

 

  • Brady, who covered “Understanding Dyeing Equipment;”

  • Kerry King of Spoonflower, Durham, N.C., who provided an update on digital textile printing;

  • Chuck Stewart principal scientists (colorist) at Eastman Chemical Co., Kingsport, Tenn., who delved into the topic “Water, Energy and Color in the Dyehouse: Where Does It Go?;” and

  • Henry Boyter of the Center for Environmentally Sustainable Textile and Apparel Businesses (CESTAB) and Joe Rinkevich of Scivera, who tag-teamed on “Environmental Risk and Sustainability – Are We Just Treading Water?”

Moderated by Kanti Jasani (retired, Performance and Technical Textile Consulting), this session featured speakers covering four interesting areas of the market. Allison Bowles, Wearable Technology Innovator at N.C. State University, spoke on the keys to the future of smart textiles in a presentation co-authored by Prof. Dr. Jesse Jur of N.C. State’s College of Textiles.

 

In her talk, she gave several compelling end uses for smart textiles, including medical & healthcare, industrial/commercial/military, home & lifestyle, fashion & entertainment and sports & fitness.

 

“The wearables market is projected to grow by 50 percent this year to almost $300 million, and a large chunk of that is driven by sports and fitness,” Bowles said. “However, as we look at the 10-year projection, medical and home & lifestyle is projected to grow significantly. There is an exponential investment amount going into this segment, which is going to fuel that growth.”

 

Market challenges around smart textiles are centered on conflicting industry goals between the textile and the electronics industry, supply chain and manufacturing, testing and standards and compelling use cases, she said.

 

In the manufacturing area, the processing of smart textiles needs to be less expensive and customizable, she said. She then explained customization and automation via whole garment knitting.

 

“Conductive inks and yarns are significantly more expensive,” she said. “We are looking at ways to use customization and automation to bring those costs down and reduce waste.”

 

Bowles also discussed what’s next in smart textiles, including thermal energy harvesting, piezoelectric energy harvesting and all-fiber-based electronics.

 

Also presenting in this segment were:

 

  • Keith Hoover of Black Swan Textiles LLC, who covered “Matching Heather Fabrics – What Could be Easier?;”

  • Ken Butts of Datacolor, who presented “Ultra-Portable Color Measurement;” and

  • Jimmy Rowe of Cotton Incorporated, who went over “Performance Proliferation – The Next Chapter in Apparel.”

Session 4:

Emerging Trends and Markets

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