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Posted October 26, 2016

 

By Devin Steele (DSteele@eTextileCommunications.com)

 

MYRTLE BEACH, S.C. – The reshoring effort took center stage during the SEAMS National Networking Conference here recently.

 

Held under the theme, “Embracing the Waves of Change,” the conference attracted 129 people from 82 companies.

 

“Just think about how long it would take to go out and meet all of these companies in this room,” Sarah Friedman, SEAMS’ executive director, said in kicking off the two-day conference.

National Networking Conference

SEAMS’ members ‘embrace waves of change’

During the event, attendees heard from a number of diverse speakers, participated in breakout sessions and took advantage of several networking opportunities. A highlight was an hour-long segment that allowed attendee to introduce themselves to the group and provide more information on their company.

 

“If you think about what you just heard and try to synthesize all the different companies and all the different sectors of the domestic supply chain that are represented in this room, how can we not bring jobs back to this country with the power of what we have here?” asked Will Duncan of Will Duncan & Associates and SEAMS’ education director, following those introductions. “The only thing that’s missing is the ear of the brand and retailer, which is something we have to collectively continue to work on. Does it mean we have to change? Absolutely. We all have to continue reinventing ourselves. But it requires thinking differently and doing differently.”

 

In a post-conference survey, Val Boezi, owner of United Associates Ltd., spoke highly of the proceedings. “This was the most productive, educational and personally beneficial conference I have attended during the 15 years that United has been in the textile business,” Boezi said.

 

SEAMS’ President Jeremy Wootten, president of HomTex, Inc., presided over the conference.

 

Patrick Hickey, acting president of Minnesota Knitting Mills, was named SEAMS’ Person of the Year for his outstanding and dedicated service to the association. In addition, Frank Henderson, president of Henderson Sewing Machine Co., was presented a plaque in recognition for his loyalty and service the SEAMS’ board of directors.

Catching some (Gen) Z’s

crucial in shifting retail

landscape, speaker says

In his presentation to kick off the conference, Jerry Inman, chief marketing officer for New York-based retail, brand and technology consultancy Demand Worldwide, focused on Generation Z, or roughly that group of consumers under age 21.

 

Why Gen Z? Because more than a quarter (25.9 percent) of Americans make up this demographic and, thanks to changing technology and mindsets, that group is having a huge impact on retail commerce, he said. And, of course, retailers are responding, which affects the way its entire supply chain operates, he added.

 

Early in his presentation, dubbed “The Retail Rebels: Who Will Conquer the Connected Consumer?,” Inman held up a smart phone and said: “This device has changed everything.” He went on to add that “this is a great time for made in America” and explained the opportunities that lay before those seeking to reshore.

 

Inman delved into the influence Gen Z’s are having on commerce, noting that market research provider Mintel puts Gen Z’s direct and indirect spending power at close to $200 billion in 2015, up from $44 billion in 2013 out of the $12 trillion total spend in the U.S. in 2015. With mall traffic by teens declining about 30 percent over the last decade, digital interactions now influence 36 cents of every dollar spent in the retail store, or about $1.1 trillion total, he pointed out.

 

And that generation is seeking goods from nontraditional sources, he added. For instance, in 2017, Amazon will surpass Macys as the largest seller of clothing in the U.S.

 

With 85 percent having had at least one mobile device since the age of 5, Gen Z’s have always known how to zoom, pinch and swipe, and they communicate in speeds of 8 seconds or less, Inman said. Not to mention the fact Gen Z’s are more socially conscious, he noted.

 

We’re truly mobile consumers, particularly Gen Z’s, he added, noting that theirs is the first generation to document their lives online publicly. And due to the existence of social media, they put great importance on their personal appearance and style, he said.

 

“It’s an on-demand and sharing culture, with video on demand, dining on demand, dates and friends on demand, ride shares and home shares,” he said. “They are the most demanding and least patient generation ever.”

 

As such, the acronym “IWWIWWIWI” has emerged, meaning “I Want What I Want When I Want It,” a term that stems from expectation that has resulted from the ubiquitous availability of product. This has led retailers and brands to improve speed to market with more direct-to-consumer products, expand channels and catalogs for “seasonless” storytelling and focus more on mass personalization, he added.

 

“In the next 24 months, 72 percent of retailers say they’re going to make 30 percent more product,” Inman said. “They have to – it’s a necessity. The assortment they need to have online is growing. It doesn’t mean they’re dead – it means there’s a new model.”

 

Inman then explained what suppliers can do now to create better engagement with Gen Z. Among his suggestions: create better quality products that are environmentally friendly; tell consumers about your philanthropy and causes and how you treat your employees and the planet; communicate visually (emojis, symbols, pictures, videos, etc.) through all channels; keep content short; and connect with consumers on world and social issues.

An audience-interactive panel session featured a group of textiles and sewn products industry suppliers who shared their insights on reshoring and expectations going forward. Moderated by Rick Ludolph of Productive Solutions, the panel featured Frank Henderson of Henderson Sewing Machine Co.; Michael Meyerholtz of Milliken; Brad Mikes of Incentive Payroll Experts; and Matt Poovey of Champion Thread.

 

Ludolph opened the discussion by posing the question, “Is reshoring real?,” asked specifically to Henderson.

 

“I think it’s real,” he said. “Otherwise, Fortune 500 companies would not be spending millions of dollars on this. Nike just announced its Speedfactory in Atlanta, and Under Armour and New Balance have announced similar facilities. And many companies are looking at wearable electronics. Those products being developed all have to be made by someone, so we see that type of product moving into the U.S. So it is real – and it’s up to us to deliver and perform.”

 

The biggest problem with the made-in-America movement, he added, is about two generations of skilled personnel have been lost.

 

“It’s a real challenge in our industry to find people,” Henderson said. “What that yields is a lot more automation, robotics integration, other types of integration to reduce the skillset of the people or to enable a work cell or automated piece of equipment to produce products with little or no human intervention.”

 

To Henderson’s point, Poovey added, “we produce three times today than what we did 10 years ago in our factory with the same headcount. We invested heavily in automation. Those companies that make the cap ex investments can succeed here. It all depends on where you sit in the value chain. You have to do something that’s of value. If you’re a strict commodity player, you have to fit that value chain for somebody to do business with you in this country or this hemisphere.”

 

Ludolph then asked Poovey what stage he thinks we’re in as far as the reshoring process.

 

“I think it always ebbs and flows,” he said. “It depends on how strong the dollar is, what the state of retail is.”

 

Next, the moderator turned to the audience to ask, “In your view, is reshoring a) just getting going; b) somewhere in the middle; or c) is it nearing the end?” The audience seemed split on the first two options, with only one or two attendees thinking it has about run its course.

 

“I think that’s great because it tells us we have opportunity out there,” Ludolph said.

 

Automation and the lack of skilled operators seemed to prevalently underscore much of the discussion after that, regardless the question.

 

Meyerholtz later provided an example of how Millken has embraced automation to help offset the skills gap.

 

“In our weaving mill, we actually have an automated machine that does virtually all the work. We have weavers, but they’re really not weavers anymore. They’re technicians or mechanics who work on the machine and keep it going, but for the most part that machine is automated. So from start to finish, the only people who come in contact with the machine is the technician, even though we still call them weavers. We often take people on plant tours to showcase what we do and the question we get a lot is, ‘where are all the people?’ We have only 36 employees in our spinning plant.”

 

As a software provider that focuses on payroll, Mikes was asked what he’s seeing among U.S. manufacturers.

 

“I’ve seen some small niche sewing companies that have a younger owner who pay their people hourly because it’s too complex to pay any other way, on performance or anything else,” he said. “That might work for now, but I can’t see that working long term for these guys. I think as work comes back here, companies have to keep the costs as low as possible but they also have to keep people.”

Panel: Does the American

reshoring effort have legs?

A quick look at Texprocess Americas 2018

Kari Bush, marketing and conference manager for Messe Frankfurt, Inc., provided an update on the next Texprocess Americas show, scheduled for May 22-24, 2018 in Atlanta. A number of SEAMS’ members exhibit as part of the Supply Chain USA Pavilion at the show.

 

Texprocess Americas will again be co-located with Techtextil North America, she said. Messe Frankfurt, the organizer, is expecting 170 exhibitors and 9,000 visitors, she added.

 

Special features include a graduate student poster program, a symposium, press tours and pavilions, Bush noted. An Innovations Awards segment is also being explored, she said.

 

According to Bush, among the hot symposium sessions at this year’s Texprocess Americas were welding and stitch-free seam technologies; fit, sizing and virtual try-on technologies; and automation, smart machines and robotics in apparel manufacturing.

Campaign 2016: It’s still the economy, stupid!

Andy Samet of Washington, D.C.-based Sorini, Samet & Associates, discussed the upcoming U.S. presidential election in a presentation dubbed, “Hillary or Donald? The Impact On Your Business.” For campaign 2016, he opened his commentary with a slide that read, “It’s still the economy, stupid!”

 

He then did a deep dive into the economic numbers showing that household incomes and earnings are stagnant, U.S. competitiveness is declining, the federal deficit is projected to increase and taxes as a percentage of GDP are near the historical average.

 

Samet also provided global numbers for the U.S. textile and apparel industry, pointing out that apparel exports are down 7.35 percent this year (Jan.-July) and textile and home textile exports are down 6.69 percent during the same period. Additionally, imports of apparel and textiles have resumed growth from the Great Recession, he said.

 

He also discussed the impact of trade on the 2016 campaign, noting that, though never popular, it is decidedly more unpopular these days. He went over each major candidates’ platforms on trade, specifically providing detail on the Trans-Pacific Partnership, opining that “I don’t see it passing this year.”

 

He noted that a new Political-Harvard poll shows that 85 percent of Republicans and 54 percent of Democrats believe free trade costs the U.S. jobs; and 18 percent of Republicans and 33 percent of Democrats believe free trade helps their communities.

 

Samet also talked about party platforms related to domestic manufacturing and the minimum wage and the challenges of the global supply chain.

AFFOA leading ‘fabric revolution’

Dr. Tairan Wang, COO of the newly formed Advanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA), discussed the nonprofit research and development consortium comprised of partners from industry, academia and state governments. AFFOA was selected to lead the Revolutionary Fibers & Textiles Manufacturing Innovation Institute (RFT-MII), announced April 1 by U.S. Secretary of Defense Ash Carter at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT).

 

The goal of the institute is to increase U.S. manufacturing competitiveness and promote a robust and sustainable national manufacturing R&D infrastructure, he noted.

 

“We are here to galvanize a fabric revolution,” Wang said, before explaining how AFFOA intends to lead this effort.

 

AFFOA’s mission, Wang said, is “to enable a manufacturing-based revolution by transforming traditional fibers, yarns, and fabrics into highly sophisticated, integrated and networked devices and systems.”

 

AFFOA is headed by CEO Yoel Fink, director of the Research Laboratory of Electronics (RLE) at MIT. “Some of this research has happened in Dr. Fink’s lab the last 15 years,” said Wang, an MIT grad. “We have learned how to put multi materials into the fiber.”

 

A number of partners have already signed on to the institute, and progress is already being made, he reported.

 

“We tap into the resources of the nation,” he said. “This is a very diverse group of companies and entities.”

How hemp adds value to textiles and apparel

Guy Carpenter, president of Cape Fear Apparel and an appointee to newly formed North Carolina Industrial HEMP Commission, presented an interesting look into the multi-functional crop, which has been cultivated for millennia. Industrial hemp was legalized in the state last year, and the commission was formed to help speed its cultivation and use.

 

Calling hemp the world’s oldest fiber, he showed a 9,000-year-old photo of a hemp fabric. Such cloth had various end uses, including ship sails and cordage, he said.

Carpenter, who worked on hemp development project abroad two decades ago, extoled the virtues of this plant.

 

“They say hemp doesn’t wear out – it wears in,” he said. “The more you wear it, the more comfortable it becomes. It’s naturally resistant to mold and is naturally antimicrobial and antibacterial. The retainability is incredible. The porous nature of the fiber allows it to breath, so it’s cool in the summer and it warms up in winter. And it has great dyeability.”

 

And hemp is so versatile, it can be used in countless products, from apparel and home furnishings to industrial products, Carpenter said.

 

“If you blend it with cotton or other fibers, that’s where most of the future is for this product,” he said. “The ability to blend the hemp with other fibers will open a whole new genre. The key is ‘cottonization.’ Hemp will not be any good at all without being blending with another fiber in apparel. Cotton is hemp’s best friend.”

 

Carpenter also sought to remove the stigma associated with hemp due to its similarities to its cannabis cousin, marijuana. He noted that hemp has less than 0.3 percent THC, the main mind-altering agent in the cannabis plant. “You can smoke an acre of hemp and you’re not going to get high,” he said.

 

He went on to explain the history of hemp, how its cultivated and processed and the economic potential it has. “This will be an economic boon to farmers and will be another cash crop,” he said.

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