080817_SPESA_Conference_Chicago_Review

Posted August 8, 2017

By Devin Steele (DSteele@eTextileCommunications.com)

CHICAGO – In introducing the program for the eighth Advancements in Manufacturing Technologies Conference organized by SPESA, the Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas here recently, Dr. Mike Fralix warned attendees that “you might get disrupted today.”

And, indeed, speakers at the full-day event at McCormick Place presented a look into how the Technology of Things (ToT) is helping transform the entire manufacturing process, specifically in the sewn products and flexible materials sectors, enabling higher productivity at lower costs.

The Internet of Things (IoT) is allowing more machines to communicate directly with other machines through the cloud and other sensor-based technologies, Fralix said. So the ToT will build upon the IoT, and Industry 4.0 will continue to inspire the digitization of the industry, including such disruptions as waterless coloring of fabric, 3D product development, virtual dressing, automated material handling, additive manufacturing, automatic cutting, cut order planning and robotic sewing, he said.

“We’re moving into a disruptive time, which is really C2B (consumer to business),” said Fralix, president & CEO of [TC]2, Cary, N.C. “Consumers are the deciders, and we’re having to readjust our supply chains and our business processes and technologies to figure out how do we adapt to that.”

Robotics, he noted, are not new and have been operating in the automotive sector for many years, he said.

“There have been attempts to put them into the fashion industry, and some have been successful,” Fralix said. “We’re not seeing a surge, but today you’re going to see some the robotic and automation systems that are fundamentally going to change the way our factories are set up.”

SPESA Chairman Sam Simpson, who recently announced his retirement from Gerber Technology after a 47-year career, added that never before has there been a better time to hold a manufacturing technology conference.

“Manufacturing has finally regained the spotlight,” he said, in welcoming attendees. “In the United States, our government in Washington is awakening to the realization that our manufacturing infrastructure requires attention. Trade agreements are being rethought and enforced. Regardless of which side of the aisle we lean, we welcome the attention that our country’s workforce is attracting. And the sewn products industry is as much in the center of the mix as ever before.

“The withdrawal from TPP, the attention that NAFTA is drawing, the focus of the consumer on fast fashion and the influx of investment from Asia into the Americas once again has made the chant ‘made in the Americas’ the voice of the land,” he continued. “The opportunities are numerous, but in order to take advantage of these opportunities, the sewn products industry needs to address the serious challenges that stand between yesterday and tomorrow.”

The conference ran concurrently with the first day of Techtextil North America in the same building adjacent to Lake Michigan.

The thread that binds

Bo Graham, manager of Global Retail Solutions at American & Efird (A&E), Mt. Holly, N.C., kicked off the program by discussing “How Today’s Technology Can Help with the Simple, But Critical and Time-Sensitive Elements in Sewing.” He covered technologies A&E’s plants use to monitor and remove defects, providing knot-free thread that will create fewer re-stitched seams and improve plant efficiency.

Graham also covered modern manufacturing processes, such as the use of global dyestuffs and consistent dye formulas – created in the U.S. but can be duplicated in dyehouses around the world, ensuring that brands or retailers receive color-matched goods regardless of where they’re produced.

He also went over tools used for color development, control and digital color matching, thread selection, problem solving, et al., such as an app developed by A&E called ColorLink.

And sustainable initiatives are as important for thread makers as any other producer, Graham added, noting that new technology has allowed thread suppliers to reduce their electrical, water and landfill footprint. He also discussed products A&E has developed, including reflective threads for athleticwear and safety goods, threads for high-stretch garments, threads for products prone to puckering and softer threads.

“Technology has aided in providing higher quality threads at lower costs,” Graham said. “The higher quality thread allows sewing machines to perform with a much higher degree of efficiency and productivity.”

Digital design methods

Yoram Burg, general manager at EFI Optitex (USA) presented “Understanding Apparel Product Development in the Age of ToT.” Based in Silicon Valley, EFI excels at printing solutions and is leading the manufacturing transformation from analog to digital, he said.

Consumer spending on clothing is estimated at 3.3 percent from typical “unit spending,” representing great challenges for brands and retailers, he pointed out early in his remarks. Citing an apparel-specific study by Boston Consulting Group, Burg noted that it previously took one year for an apparel trend to become “mainstream” – and now it takes only three to five weeks.

Brick and mortar will continue to exist, but customers will patronize malls and shops for different purposes than in the past, he added. As such, brands and retailers must work together to develop faster, develop right and work efficiently, he said.

He then delved into 3D digital design methods and new ways of thinking to keep up with fast fashion. For instance, “3D-enabled” designers can leverage 3D models to create variations, texture, artwork options and more, he said. Additionally, leveraging 3D content for review, collaboration and approvals throughout the design cycle brings faster decision making, he noted. Plus, 3D design allows analyzing the fit early in the process, allowing the perfection of fit to the target audience.

Burg also discussed the micro-factory and the importance of personalization, and went over several case studies.

Embracing digitization

Lenny Marano, vice president of Product Marketing at Gerber Technology, explained why manufacturers around the world are embracing digitization. In a nutshell, here’s why, he said, citing MIT: Companies that have digitally “transformed” are 26 percent more profitable than their average industry competitors.

And, according to global management consulting firm McKinsey & Co., nearly every company that successfully transformed itself did so through data connectivity, he added.

As more and more aspects of the sewn products value stream become connected and "smart machines" become even smarter, it creates opportunities to access new sets of data virtually and automatically, he said. Using this data, companies can gain new insights into their supply chain and production, quickly identifying ways to make it more efficient, he added.

In the digitization of fashion design and product development, everyone is at a different point in his or her journey, Marano said. He explained the components of digital success, including integrated processes; agile infrastructures; tools for simulation, analysis, etc.; and culture and strategy.

He urged the audience to build their strategy by leveraging digital technology to implement change; building an infrastructure for today and tomorrow; and getting committed. “Start now, start small and grow – or be left behind,” he said.

Marano showed diagrams of an integrated solution data flow, integrated mass production and integrated mass customization. “And it’s rapidly moving beyond apparel,” he said. And IoT allows the fashion supply chain to connect, he added. “Challenge your suppliers and other value chain participants on how you can collaboratively use data,” he said.

In closing, he added: “Don’t go digital just to go digital. Think of the value proposition to your customers.”

The hub: the cutting room

Michael Rabin, president of Morgan Tecnica America, presented “Cut Order Planning Innovations and Solutions.” With the cutting room being the hub where all the key components come together, it is essential that beforehand, a plan is in place that can coordinate all activities, including: fabric purchasing, pattern designing, order requirements, trims and accessories, sewing and finishing and logistics, he said.

Proper planning, he went on, ensures optimal cost control because manufacturers can’t afford to lose time or materials in the production process. And lost time can lead to late fees or a loss of business when products aren’t delivered as promised, he added. And poor planning can lead to missed opportunities and higher costs, especially as raw material prices constantly rise. In addition, with styles changing rapidly and vendors making increasingly smaller orders to keep up with changing trends, the planning phase must be as accurate and flexible as possible, Rabin said.

For loss prevention, planning plays a key role, as up to 80 percent of the cost of garment is in the fabric, he pointed out. Planning also is important as it relates to delivery, as shorter and shorter lead times between ordering and delivery is the trend, and manufacturers that can meet short lead times have a distinct competitive advantage, he said.

Rabin then noted several points to keep in mind when selecting the right planning solution.

Tomorrow’s winners

Frank Henderson, president of Henderson Sewing Machine Co., Andalusia, Ala., presented an insightful discussion on “Tremendous Challenges and Tumultuous Changes.” Some of the most pressing challenges during these disruptive times, he said, include finding skilled labor; training and education; automation and the need for automation; proximity to consumer markets; and fast turn/speed to market.

He detailed each of these challenges, which are bringing changes such as repetitive motion manufacturing; vision systems integrated into sewing; automated machines and robots; flexible automation; robotic automation; automated devices; automated work cells; factory automation; and new manufacturing processes.

However, with those challenges come opportunities for the sewn products industry, Henderson said. Innovators who seek out new technologies and tools will be the winners, he added. Winners also will be those companies that invest in the future through new technologies, methods, markets, models and “non-traditional solutions,” he went on.

“In the end, creativity will win,” Henderson said. “Creative products, creative manufacturing and creative solutions are the key.”

The pillars of Industry 4.0

Limuel Sadadraca, vice president of Professional Services at Lectra, discussed “Cutting Room 4.0 and Data Exchange in the Fashion Supply,” and explained the pillars of Industry 4.0. These nine technologies are transforming industrial production, he said: autonomous robots; simulation; horizontal and vertical system integration; the Internet of Things; cyber security; the cloud; additive manufacturing; augmented reality; and big data and analytics.

In Industry 4.0, production is moving from isolated cells to fully integrated data and production flow, Sadadraca said. Industry 4.0 presents an unprecedented opportunity for the fashion industry in that it brings increased operational efficiency through new, disruptive technologies, he added. Plus, it brings a shift from mass production to profitable, large-scale personalized production, he pointed out.

He later explained system integrated solutions for the Cutting Room 4.0, which he called a smart and automated process, and discussed its benefits. He also covered the growing need for data integration, which we said is a step toward Industry 4.0 and digitization.

Software solutions

Michael Ross, strategic accounts director at Simparel SFC, Atlanta, covered “Real-time Visibility and Control – From Order to Cash.” He explained full-circle software solutions, including ERP (enterprise), PLM (development), MRP (materials), SCM (supply chain), SFC (manufacturing), WMS (warehousing) and EDI (compliance).

Companies working with modern software systems realize higher profits, as they provide full visibility from order to manufacturing to delivery; higher productivity that results in increased sales; reduced costs and inefficiencies; and improved customer satisfaction, he said.