Posted June 29, 2017
By Devin Steele (DSteele@eTextileCommunications.com)
ADVENTURA, Fla. – “Welcome to the largest meeting we’ve ever had.”
Thus noted an obviously pleased Mike Todaro, managing director of the Americas Apparel Producers’ Network (AAPN), in kicking off the group’s 2017 pro:Americas Annual Conference here last month.
By the numbers, this event indeed bore teeth: 225 executives from 129 companies and nine countries turned out for eight agenda sessions, one keynote speaker, four industry speakers, one data update and two panels with 11 speakers total.
For sure, the network has come a long way since its humble beginnings in 1981, when a small group of cut-and-sew contractors in Georgia formed the organization to serve the state. Soon, it expanded into other states and later became a national and then a hemispheric organization, changing its name to reflect its reach. Today, AAPN connects the entire textile/apparel supply chain in the Western Hemisphere and boasts a membership of around 1,700.
Not only was the recent two-day conference chock full of educational sessions, but ample time for networking – some breaks lasting at least 45 minutes – was built in, “because we take networking seriously,” Todaro said.
In addition to the speakers highlighted in the sidebar stories, other presentations were made by Tony Anvozino, vice president of Global Sourcing, Haggar Clothing, who provided an update on current trends in the textile/apparel industry; and Jon Fee, partner, Alston & Bird LLP, who offered his take on the Trump Administration and U.S. trade policy.
In addition, attendees heard two panel discussions:
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“The Supply Chain as an Enabler in Today’s Omni-Channel World,” featuring panelists David Adkins, The Lenzing Group; Ron Roach, Contempora Fabrics; Kim Schneider, Avery Dennison; Joseph Blumberg, Grupo M; Don Hire, Crowley Logistics; and moderator Jeff Streader, Go Global Retail.
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“Do More While Reducing Your Price AND Hanging On To Your Employees,” featuring panelists Luis Mosqueda, Productivity, Inc.; Walter Wilhelm, WWA Advisors; Juan Singhelboim, TexOps; Jason Adams, Lectra North America; and moderator Barbara Zeins, Gerson & Gerson.
PARDON THE DISRUPTION
Conference bears teeth for Western Hemisphere
Ed Gribbin, president of New York-based Alvanon, apparel product development consulting firm, presented, “Fashion Disrupted: How Technology, Innovation, Consumers and Politics are Changing The Future of Fashion.”
“This is the most educated audience I will speak to this entire year because you live this day in and day out,” Gribbin, now in his 40th year in the apparel industry, said in his opening remarks.
For more than 100 years, fashion retail owned the customer, he said, and record growth occurred in the early 2000s as retailers were virtually “printing money.” But now, the customer owns fashion retail and, as a result, the apparel bubble is about to burst, he opined.
“If you make or sell apparel, prepare to be disrupted,” Gribbin said. “There is no normal anymore, and apparel is especially at risk. We have too many stores, too many malls and too little control of visibility in our inventories. There used to be a GAP on every corner, it seemed, and the only way to grow was to add stores. We have more than 1,200 malls in the U.S. – and half of them will close in the next three or four years, or be repurposed.”
And Bloomberg projects that 10,000 retail stores will close their doors this year, he added. “That’s 10,000 less stores to sell your product – scary,” he said.
And the Internet isn’t killing malls – other malls are, Gribbin said, citing The Wall Street Journal. “Consumers don’t really need any more clothing, and brands and retailers are not giving them anything to get excited about. If every one of you stopped shopping for clothes today, would you have enough clothes to last the rest of your life?
“We have too much stuff and consumers are starting to figure that out,” he continued. “The ironic thing is, we are all in the business to sell more clothing. So how do we reconcile that? That’s a real challenge for all of us.”
Of course, Gribbin brought up the “A” word – Amazon – to describe the significant disruption we’re experiencing. Three years ago, most online searches were done on Google, he said – today, 53 percent start on Amazon. And Amazon represented 52 percent of online growth last year, with 48 percent being everybody else, he added. In addition, Amazon was expected to become the largest U.S. apparel retailer this year, he noted.
Gribbin went on to note that less than 4 percent of every dollar is spent on apparel today, half of what it was a decade ago. And, on average today, consumers are willing to pay only 75 percent of full price (MRSP), he pointed out.
“We’re not going back to 2007 – we’re not going back anywhere,” he said.
He went on to give examples of some of the upstarts that are changing the face of retail by providing services such as intimate personalization, customization and faster delivery.
Companies that are successful in this new landscape will embrace: digitization and e-commerce; the sharing economy; 3D planning development and selling tools; and fast fashion.
“Retail has never faced such a daunting, threatening crisis,” Gribbin said. “Innovation and technology are essential, but probably nothing is more urgent than finding ways to get it faster, to cut the time – not from design to store – but from design to a customer’s home.”
– Devin Steele
Alvanon exec: The future of fashion is changing fast, so be prepared
Denise Lee Yohn, a brand-building expert and author of “What Great Brands Do: The Seven Brand-Building Principles that Separate The Best from the Rest,” keynoted the conference, and opened with a clarification.
“I’m going to set the record straight,” she said. “I’m not going to talk about branding. To me, that means branding a cow. I’m going to talk about brand building. By that, I mean creating a valuable asset for you and your customers. A brand is what you do and how you do it.”
And for the next hour or so, Yohn imparted many years of brand-building knowledge and inspiration to an engaged audience seeking ways to stand out in the crowd.
“Every one of you can have a rock star brand,” she said. “Whoever your customer is, they could be a raving fan of your brand. And you could be a rock star. But how? By hoping something sticks? Hope is not a strategy.”
Yohn acknowledged that the textile/apparel industry is operating on razor-thin resources in a time of uncertainty. And much of that uncertainty comes from the changing consumer, a.k.a. Gen C – a term used to describe people who care deeply about creation, curation, connection and community, and it’s defined not by age but by attitude and mindset, she said. And their expectations of brands is constantly changing, she added.
“They’re spending their money not on product so much as experiences,” Yohn said. “They buy from companies that create an experience around that product. That’s where customer loyalty will be won or lost.”
With consumer attitudes and shopping habits changing, and the retail model rapidly declining as a result, she noted that everyone must have a great brand to succeed now, which is the best appeal to customers. Companies must put their brand at the center of the organization and build around seven brand-building actions, she pointed out, before deep diving into those principles. They include:
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Great brands start inside. Culture is what determines what people work on every day and know how to support and advance their brand, she said. “But culture is not typically the first step they turn to when they want to refresh their brand.” They start with communications, i.e. with logos, website redesign, etc. “Be sure everyone is engaged in your brand,” she said. “Without that internal brand alignment and engagement, everything you do externally will be like putting lipstick on a pig.”
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Avoid selling products. “It’s far more effective to seduce someone through emotion than to push product,” Yohn said. “The idea of connecting through emotions works in all categories, from diamonds to deodorant. Companies don’t push their brand without linking their status with aspiration, emotion, etc. What business are you really in? You might be selling something but you’re really in the business of helping your customers be more confident. Help them express their unique selves."
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Great brands ignore trends. “And often that means ignoring what their competitors are doing,” she said. “An example is IKEA. Part of their brand mission is to let people know they can afford their products. IKEA designers start with a price point. And then they do the hard work of developing a product that meets that price point. UBER – they were not trying to follow trends when they started that company. Everybody now wants to be the UBER of their category. Are you leading or are you following? Being different is more valuable than being derivative. They challenge the status quo.”
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Great brands don’t chase customers. “They know better than to squander their elusive brand equity,” Yohn said. “And not chasing customers is why, in the energy drink market, Red Bull is a far more profitable brand than Monster. You can’t be all things to all people. Shine your brand identity like a lighthouse and let the world revolve around you."
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Great brands sweat the small stuff in the customer experience. “They design their customer experiences. For example, REI has designed their entire store so it re-creates the customer experience of the outdoors. And with MailChimp, after you send the email, it says “Rock on!” They want that moment to be celebrated. It’s a small moment that can have a big impact."
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Great brands never have to “give back.” “Giving back is important,” Yohn said. “But great brands seem to be asking themselves why merely do good when we can be great? An example is Coke with its 5by20 program. Coke is not just making some sort of philanthropic effort. They’re asking what would make a difference here? Not just CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility). They’re doing CSV – Creating Shared Value.”
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Great brands commit and stay committed to the core of their brand. “CVS, for example, wanted to position itself as a healthcare company,” she said. “Then they asked, ‘are we truly committed to this mission?’ They knew that selling tobacco products was not true to their mission, so they stopped that, knowing they would lose a lot of money. That was right for their brand and it’s turned out to be wonderful to their business.”
“I’ve also added an eighth action,” Yohn said. “And that is: Great brands do brands as a business. Brand as business is a management philosophy. Brand building is no longer a marketing function. It’s a leadership responsibility.”
She urged attendees to manage their brands in a way that recognizes that “you all need each other.”
“You need to work together to win over customers, to thrive and grow, to build your brands,” Yohn said. “One of you can’t be a rock start. All of you need to be rock stars. And that’s part of the reason you’re here today: To share ideas and to challenge each other and dream together about begin to be rock star brands.”
And that can happen if the “brand as business management approach” is implemented, she added.
“When you do that, you’re going to experience tremendous results – individually as a company and together as an eco-system,” Yohn said. “You’re going to enjoy higher profit margins because research has shown that people pay more for products and services from great brands.
“You’re going to have customers who are truly loyal to you,” she continued. “You’re going to have customers who choose to do business with you time and again. You’re going to have lower operating costs because not only do you have to do less marketing because your customers are doing your marketing for you – they become your brand ambassadors – but you’re also going to have lower employee costs because you can recruit, train, develop and manager your employees better with a strong brand. And you’re going to be in a better negotiating position with your partners, your suppliers, your distributors, etc. because everyone wants to be associated with a great brand.”
Additionally, you will have more confidence that you are on the right track and will stay there because you are “guided by your core brand values and not be tossed by the prevailing wisdom and short-term pressures,” she added. “Yes, it’s all possible if you do what great brands do.”
- Devin Steele
Expert Yohn explains seven principles of brand building
Kurt Cavano, founder of GT Nexus (an Infor Company), presented his annual update on the latest and greatest e-commerce innovations. Last year’s disrupter was Amazon.com and “they’re not slowing down at all,” he said. “These are people who are in a frenzy to own the world.”
On manufacturing, he said that jobs have not been lost to trade as much as to technology. Manufacturing production has increased 250 percent, though jobs have declined, he noted.
“Guess which sector had most technology improvement?” Cavano asked. “Mining. One person today does the work handled by 30 people 40 years ago. This is a scary movie we’re watching right now because we’re watching a cannibalization of jobs.”
Four secular changes have occurred, he noted: digitization, capital over labor, technology enhancements and a utility explosion.
“If you take a video camera and a regular camera and a phone, what do you get? An iPhone,” he said.
Today, a person who has premium TV, cable or satellite, Internet TV, WiFi, two cell phones and XM radio spends about $600 monthly on data – roughly the same as or higher than a car payment, Cavano said.
“It’s a totally different world where we’re making that choice,” he said. “So we have this utility and we have this digital migration where we’re picking data over stuff.”
And data, he added, citing The Economist, is now “the world’s most valuable resource.”
Too much capital is floating around the world, and “that capital a the low range is accelerating the investment in technology and capital over humans, or jobs,” he said. “Leading that is the investment in robotics.”
Cavano went on to cite a number of technological advancements that are changing the apparel world and other areas, including 3D knitting (i.e. Shima Seiki’s WHOLEGARMENT technology); material science (i.e. carbon fiber, graphene aerogel); bioscience (i.e. synthetic spider silk); Artificial Intelligence (AI); Machine Learning; and the Internet of Things (IoT).
“It’s terrifying or scary or both,” Cavano said. “We’ve seen this picture before. We saw the Industrial Revolution. The question is, are the jobs in the Technology Revolution going to be as good or better than the jobs now? I don’t know the answer to that.”
“But I encourage you to embrace it, or retire – your choice.”
– Devin Steele
GT Nexus head: Consumers choosing data over 'stuff' – embrace it or retire
Edwin Keh, CEO of Hong Kong Research Institute of Textile & Apparel, presented an interesting talk on “How the Apparel Industry Saved Civilization.”
A lecturer at The Wharton School of Business, he provided a short history of the four Industrial Revolutions, noting that the evolution of the supply chain has led to Industry 4.0. The supply chain, he opined, has shifted from a cost center to a competitive advantage; from peripheral to business to the core of it; and from hierarchical (sequential) to peer to peer (real time).
In retail, the implications of these changes have been dire, Keh said, pointing to examples of all of the closures and massive job cutbacks.
He then posed two thought-provoking questions:
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Why are we still selling hardware in a market that only values software and data?
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What do we do in a market looking for systems, solutions and purpose?
“A watch now tells us what’s going on with our phone,” Keh said. “Who is the largest watch maker in the world now? Apple.”
He continued: “Apparel doesn’t take care of us – we take care of it. We’re still selling the same hardware that we were selling 10 years ago. I’m pretty sure that 10 years from now, we won’t be selling the same thing.”
In discussing the “manufacturer of the future,” he cited a couple of my students at Wharton who started Warby Parker, an online apparel and accessories store that is now a $1.2 billion company. “Five years ago, they were sitting in the back of the room as mediocre MBA students,” he deadpanned.
He then asked, why do people buy stuff?
“A lot has to do with what our identity is,” Keh said. “Everything has to be a lot more authentic right now. They have to buy your product because they see that you align with their purpose in life.”
A problem, he said, is our focus on cost first, which causes us to neglect everything else, he said. “We still think of 18-month cycles and curves,” he said. “We should be more concerned about speed and centralized decision making.”
And, he asked, should we concern ourselves as much where product is made?
“We are very concerned about this country of origin thing,” he said. “The way we think about country of origin is obsolete. It doesn’t tell you really where value is being created, what’s happening with that product.”
In his comprehensive discussion, Keh also noted that lots of wealth is being created somewhere else in the world, and that should not be ignored. For instance, the majority of China’s population will live in urban areas by 2025 – that’s 350 million people moving from the countryside into the city and becoming middle class, he said.
“That’s one America,” he said. “That’s the largest people movement in the history of civilization and we didn’t even notice. There is huge potential to service that marketplace. Our inventory is in the wrong place. Are we thinking about how to service that customer?”
“We’re in a new economy,” he added later. “It behooves us to think about what the next thing is going to be.”
– Devin Steele
HKRITA CEO: You better be paying attention
(L-R) Juan Zighelboim of TexOps, Martha Miller of APJeT and Jim Hopkins of Hamrick Mills
Jill Coleman and AAPN Executive Director Sue Strickland
(L-R) David Roberts of Cap Yarns and his wife Ellen; Raudel Valdes of Vertical Textiles; LuLane Long and her husband Andy Long of Cap Yarns
(L-R) Juan Zighelboim of TexOps, Martha Miller of APJeT and Jim Hopkins of Hamrick Mills
AAPN Industry Leadership Award
2017 Winners
Larry Haddock,
Professor Emeritus, SouthernTech
Alan Brooks
Founder, New Generation Computing
Alfonso Hernandez
Founder, Argus Group
Joe Stephenson
Founder, Rocedes
Kim Krummell
Sourcing, SuperDry, UK
Susan Ganz
CEO, Lion Brothers
Walter Wilhelm
Founder, WWA Associates
Keith Crisco
Founder, Asheboro Elastics
Jill Coleman
Formerly with Avery Dennison
Barbara Zeins
President, Gerson & Gerson
John Strasburger
SVP, Supply Chain, Williamson Dickie
Scott Vaughn
President, Rocedes,
Randy Harward
SVP, Materials, Under Armour
Carlos Arias
CEO, WINDS Group
David Sasso
VP, Buhler Quality Yarn
Rick Horwitch
VP, Bureau Veritas
Kurt Cavano
Founder TradeCard, now with Infor
Juan Zighelboim
Co-Founder, TexOps
To read full bios on recipients, please click here.