“There was a good mix of suppliers and fabric brands to address real-world problems, along with technical solution options,” one attendee said.

 

On display in the conference room were examples of spandex-containing garments that had passed various test methods when initially tested after manufacture, but later during storage exhibited dye transference problems or other discoloration. 

 

Several existing colorfastness test methods in the AATCC Technical Manual are being used extensively throughout the industry. But the RA92 Committee has learned some non-AATCC tests are in use to evaluate colorfastness of spandex-containing products. The committee has seen contradictory test results where initial results on fabrics were acceptable and garments or other items made from these fabrics showed poor to very poor results, Jasani reported.

 

“This tells us there is a need for additional test methods to identify these hidden colorfastness issues, and better predict ‘failures with time’ in spandex containing-products,” he said.

 

As such, the RA92 Committee has tasked itself with re-examining existing test methods and determining what will be required in a modification or creation of a new test method. If you have any input, guidance or suggestions, please email Jasani here or Diana Wyman, AATCC’s technical director, here.

 

Wide range of peakers

 

Nearly 20 speakers of diverse backgrounds and experiences addressed the group over the two days. The program was segmented into four sessions:

 

• Challenges to Retailers, Brands and Consumers

• Dyeing of Spandex Blends

• Finishing and Specialty Fabrics

• Care, Testing and Case Studies

 

Speakers included:

 

• Janna Driscoll of LBrands – Victoria’s Secret/MAST, who indicated that her firm’s biggest challenge with spandex is “water marks,” or residual blue lines of spots in low-lying areas of the bra cup;

• Geoffrey D. Hietpas of INVISTA, who went over fabric innovation for high-quality stretch fabrics;

• Werner Tissen of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, who covered reliable processing of polyester/elastane brands;

• Mike Cheek of Huntsman, who gave an overview of the dyeing of nylon/elastane that covered pitfalls and best practices;

• Houser, who discussed wet processing of cationic-dyeable polyester/spandex blends;

• Mary Ankeny of Cotton Incorporated, who discussed best processing practices for cotton/spandex;

• Dan St. Louis of the Manufacturing Solutions Center, who provided details about socks and legwear processing;

• Kevin Spring of Stefan Enterprises, a full-service wet print, nylon and lycra facility near New York City, who covered conventional rotary screen-printing on fabrics with spandex;

• Ralph Tharpe, an industry consultant who teamed up with Larry Fontana of machinery manufacturer Lafer SpA to talk about sustainable fit stretch denim and equipment that uses liquid ammonia for this purpose;

• Geoffrey Gettliffe of Archroma, who presented chemical finishing of textiles with spandex;

• Jasani, who highlighted mechanical finishing of textiles with spandex;

• Louann Spirito of SGS Consumer Testing Services, who provided information on testing stretch and recovery;

• Punita Patel of Joseph Ribkoff, who talked about managing color block garments (polyester spandex) for the high-end fashion brand; and

• Martin Bide of the University of Rhode Island, who provided “real-life” case studies and fastness testing.

 

“The presentations gave everyone information on the best processing practices so when they go back to their job, they have a benchmark to reference,” Houser said. “Also, of equal importance to best practices, we know that processors also have problems on non-spandex-containing fabrics, so the information presented on dyeing, finishing and fastness testing was equally of value.”

 

The symposium also included tours of the Textile Technology Center’s labs.